Now that the wheel will turn whenever the handle is triggered. Also, you might notice there are 4 other holes drilled in the cable-wheel in the above picture - I wasn't exactly certain how/where Gordon wanted me to drill, so rather than bug him I just started guessing until I figured it out, hehe!!!!Įdit: Use some blue loctite on the bolt - without it my bolt seemed to loosen up over time. I didn't remove the spring now that it's useless - I suppose you could if you wanted, but I hate chopping things off unless I absolutely have to - never know when you might need it later on. The point of this is to take away the spring action from the handle and force the wheel portion to turn whenever the e-brake handle is pulled on. With the silver u-pin out of the handle (and t-handle hanging limply), drill a hole to join the handle with the cable-wheel portion of the e-brake (where the t-handle cable wraps around). No idea why people seem to feel the need to take it out of the car and put it into a vice to do this? To hold tension keep pulling the t-handle cable backwards and have friend insert silver u-pin back into the hole when all the teeth have cleared. Then you grab the t-handle cable and pull towards to the rear of the car.this will cause the gear teeth to move back and reset tension. *If you want to reset tension in the e-brake handle, all you have to do is have somebody manually lift up the ratchet ?pawl?. ![]() When you remove the pin the gear teeth will snap forward and make tension - but wait, didn't I forget to attach the t-handle cable to the e-brake cables? No - the stock setup is absolutely useless and it took me several hours to figure that one out You won't be using it again, but I'd keep it just incase you need to reset tension (e.g., want to remove the t-handle equilizer from the e-brake handle)* Now pull the silver u-pin out of the handle - this pin keeps tension on the ratcheting part. Insert the t-handle stud into the e-brake handle wheel slot. The only real thing I think I needed was the RIC to the uppper control arm mount in order to make certain the e-brake cable didn't bump into my brake line, but I'm paranoidīolt the handle onto the frame. I combined the 2 cables into a RIC below the 5link center mount and held it to the mount with 2 zip ties and a RIC. ![]() Then used a RIC and bolted it to the upper most hole in the control arm area. Since I'm using 5link what I did was zip tie (for extra piece of mind) the e-brake cables onto the triangle tube area. Run the cables from the Wilwood bracket through the triangle area (as the manual describes), over the control arms and into the rear-most bracket. ![]() The spring will be run under the 4'' tubes. This side of the cables should NOT have the spring on it. Hook the cables into the mounting bracket on the Wilwood setup. Doing this will cause the tabs at the opposite end to bend slightly - that's okay - it'll still work perfectly and install onto the Wilwood gold-arm properly Once the cable is in, put the cut end into a vice and tighten it shut. Your goal is to pry it apart enough that the e-brake cable can slip in. Once the opening has been widened, but is not yet wide enough to slip the cable in, insert a chisel into the opening you've made and start prying it apart. Now take a grinder and start to widen the opening. Install the clevis on the end of the cable that does NOT have the spring attached to it.īasically take a hacksaw and cut down the middle of the clevis to the opening for the cable. You need to install the Clevis onto the Ford e-brake cables, in order to hook them into the Wilwood setup.
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